In recent days, we, along with the providers and makers of Idrija žlikrofi and the mayor of the Municipality of Idrija, Tomaž Vencelj, as part of the GO! Pasta project, visited our western neighbors in Carnia, specifically in Tolmezzo. We got acquainted with the tradition, diverse preparation, and significance of Carnian stuffed pasta called cjarsons, while also exploring the connections and parallels with Idrija žlikrofi. We believe that this project will mark a new period of cooperation and connection between the regions.
Tolmezzo (Slovenian: Tolmeč, Friulian: Tumieç) is a town close to the Slovenian border in the beautiful Carnia region. Its strategic location, bordered by the Tilment River on one side and the Bût River on the other, has shaped the history of the town itself. However, what interested us more was how culinary traditions, especially cjarsons, have shaped the town.
The peddlers shaped an ancient dish.
Cjarsons are a dish with ancient roots. They are associated with peddlers who transported spices across the Alps. When they returned home after months, the kitchens were filled with the pleasant aroma of spices they had managed to save despite the arduous journey. Thus, housewives combined local ingredients with exotic spices to create something entirely unique – cjarsons. These are filled pockets that, in appearance and ingredients, resemble Idrija žlikrofi, Kobarid štruklji, or Carinthian nudli. It is said that there are as many cjarsons recipes as there are cooks who prepare them; they vary from household to household. In the past, the filling depended on what was available in the pantry at home, and also on special occasions. Like Idrija žlikrofi, Carnian cjarsons are also a festive dish.
Our visit to Carnia was marked by gastronomy. Following the initial welcome, where we were greeted by the Mayor of Tolmezzo, Roberto Vicentini, and the President of the Mountain Community of Carnia (Comunità di montagna della Carnia), Ermes Antonio de Crignis, we presented the GO! Pasta project at a press conference. This project addresses the challenges of the Upper Friuli (Italy) and Goriška (Slovenia) gastronomic heritage, with a focus on the tradition of stuffed pasta. The project's activities are strongly linked to the European Capital of Culture GO! 2025, which will mark the broader region next year. The project also represents an opportunity to deepen collaboration between Idrija and Carnia, a partnership that began in 2017 when Tolmezzo was honored as the Alpine Town of the Year.
We uncovered the secrets of cjarsons.
In the afternoon, we were visited by the head of Tradizione Carnia, Corinna Gortana, who is involved in the production of cjarsons. We learned about the sales channels they use and how they market their products, while also discussing the advantages and disadvantages of machine production and the appropriate price for handmade cjarsons. Then we went on a short trip to Sutrio, a tourist village at the foot of Mount Zoncolan. We visited the production at the cooperative dairy, where they produce alto but cheese as well as regular and smoked ricotta. We also saw examples of good practices, such as scattered hotels and a 'living room' - a shared multipurpose space for the local community. In the evening, the visit to the nativity scenes near the village was particularly magical.
The culinary experience continued to mark the second day of our trip. Alongside chef Daniel Cortiulo and students from the Paschini-Linussio Vocational School in Tolmezzo, we learned how to properly handcraft and cook cjarsons. We learned the preparation of both sweet and savory recipes and discovered that, like Idrija žlikrofi, making cjarsons requires skill and knowledge. After tasting the delicious creations, chef Daniel Cortiulo prepared a lunch where we sampled various Carnian dishes. We concluded the study tour with a visit to the ethnological museum, where we learned more about the lives and customs of the people of Carnia in the past.
The study tour in Tolmezzo represented the first major event within the framework of the Go! Pasta project, which will shape our activities over the next two years. As part of the project, we will organize several joint 'borderless' presentations in the Friuli-Venezia Giulia and Goriška regions, with our activities particularly highlighted in 2025, when Nova Gorica and Gorizia will hold the title of European Capitals of Culture. As part of the project, we also plan to purchase a special trailer to offer Idrija žlikrofi and cjarsons at various events in the regions. The GO! Pasta project is funded by the European Union through the GO! 2025 Small Projects Fund of the Interreg VI-A Italy-Slovenia 2021-2027 program, managed by the EGTC GO.
GO! Pasta – Building intercultural and economic bridges with stuffed pasta
GO! Pasta – costruire ponti interculturali ed economici attraverso la pasta ripiena
The project is funded by the European Union through the GO! 2025 Small Projects Fund of the Interreg VI-A Italy-Slovenia 2021-2027 program, managed by the EGTC GO.
Il progetto è finanziato dall’Unione europea nell’ambito del Fondo per piccoli progetti (Small Project Fund) GO! 2025 del Programma Interreg VI-A Italia-Slovenia 2021-2027, gestito dal GECT GO.
www.euro-go.eu/en/spf & www.ita-slo.eu